This past August, we made it back safely from our 10 day inaugural trip into the rich wilderness area called the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness located in the northern third of the Superior National Forest in northeastern Minnesota.
Murray, Autumn, GG aka my sista' Heather, Jay (Jason), Eric and lil ol' me. Each of us a little different than before we embarked on this adventure together.
We’ve wanted to do this trip for years.
For nearly 150 miles along the international boundary, adjacent to Canada’s Quetico Provincial Park, bordered on the west by Voyageurs National Park, are more than 1 million vast wilderness acres.
Within we hoped to find sandy beaches & rocky shores, rugged cliffs & crags, canyons & gentle hills, portages easier & hard, researched aspects & the unknown, remote campsites & dark skies, waterways & fishes, catches & tasty campsite dishes, and perhaps an elusive BWCA monster too.
Paddling into just a few of lakes we were surrounded by forest, a few islands in between, and found ourselves renewed as filtered waters sustain.
“Oh FUUUDGE” was audible to ears near. As my sister and I was exploring, we looked down and retreated every ... so ... slowly … but it was too late, even after a wash those pesky itchy raised boil spots started to appear unwelcomed unlike the stars we'd see in the absence of manmade light during the night. UGH! this gal came back with a bit o' poison ivy. Thankfully, I had my prescription ointment with me because unfortunately I've had several severe reactions before and with all of my nature scampering I always carry it … this case wasn't horrible just super annoying.
Interestingly, two Forest Service employees paddled up to our site mid-trip checking permits. Yes, you must have a permit to recreate in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area but as they approached stating their intentions I jokingly said "Wait, what? You need a permit to camp here"? I think by their laughs they thought it was at least a bit funny. Legal we all were, permits in each canoe. We got to chatting about their gig along with a host of topics interested in how their work day is spent, what they do during the winter, how many days are they staying out. One task they were performing was collecting data on plants, specifically invasive flora. They shared that poison ivy is prevalent within the lakes (lands) we were exploring. So remain vigilant and bring some remedies with you in your medical first aide kit!
Anyhow … as I interrupted myself & my Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness story … it was a phenomenal trip overall!
In the end, we'd spent nine full days in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Our return voyage was quiet as we solemnly and slowly dipped paddles into the calm water, each stroke brining us back to our entry point. Moose Lake (#25) was where we embarked, a short ride out of Ely, MN. It was a calculated choice giving us what some purist might think a cheater start to our trip, a boat ride up to our first portage over to Splash Lake. Weighted down, wanting to create a base camp over on Ensign Lake we all voted in favor of this. The guys we met, our meet-up time perfectly synchronized, we'd load all of our gear anxiously awaiting what was next. The boats zipped up Moose Lake like a flash compared to what our paddle may have been otherwise.
Camping is a lot of work; the prep, the check lists, during each day that's for sure & clean-up afterwards is a beast too but time and time again ... we're all in! The added layer of a canoe and portage was different for all of us. We chose to create a base camp and head out for day trips that required several portages to different lakes and a waterfall nearby was enticing and much "easier" because most of our gear we were able to leave back at our site perched high on a crag overlooking the east end of Ensign Lake.
We paddled up to campsite after campsite the day of entry only to find spot after spot taken. Alas, perhaps over 200 yards away several guys standing on shore were waving in our direction. A wave back and my paddling continued. They began to wave frantically beckoning us in. "This site is open, you should take it" they yelled across the water. Quickly our strokes fastened as we landed on a sweet beach that had perfect steps formed out of prehistoric rock leading us up to a flat, large, perfect, this will be our home for the nine nights, spot.
The lakeshore was craggy, campsites none the same. Some with sandy beaches, some overly exposed while others tucked deeper into the forest. Our site landed us on a perch, a panoramic vista no five-star hotel could ever compete, this our wilderness lodge.
Our craggy overlook
The badminton aka bug zapper was not a luxury item but a must have! Rechargeable with our solar packs each day they'd get ample use ... zzzzz, snap, spark "gotcha you little bugger"!!
We collaborated with Ely Outfitting Company & Boundary Waters Guide Service to create our trip plan. Ryan was a treat to work with and his knowledge of the area is as immense as this beautiful region. The value in working with a guide service helped these first timers better understand the commitment we all were making to this expedition and their commitment to the environment is perfectly aligned with our own, their dedication to leave no trace ethics, wilderness stewardship, and protecting wild places made this an easy alignment for us.
The best sunrise of the trip
At first, we were going to rent all of our gear from Ely Outfitting Company however by mid-summer we procured three canoes that would meet our needs nicely knowing we'd be hooked and want to return consecutive years continuing our quest to be one with nature in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.
The weather was really nice the first two days then turned on us to early fall-like temps (it was mid-August) barely breaking 60 during the day, overcast & seemingly endless drizzle hid sunsets and sunrises. Finally, on our last full day the skies cleared allowing for dark star laced skies & the sound of wolves howling across the lake.
Our canoes at rest
We'd wake up early each morning hoping for this but alas they didn't all exist in the fine dewy thankfully it's not raining mist.
There was copious amounts of fishing that provided fresh Walleye every day for brunch. Months earlier we'd dehydrated ground venison from our harvest the fall prior & protein filled chicken breast was ground and dehydrated too. We crafted these into various dinner vittles interlaced with rice, rehydrated veggies, pasta and mashed taters.
Meal prep months ago made for easier dinner vittles on-site
Veggies laced with rehydrated protein by GG
Seeking on-line foods to bring we'd come across this product ... real butter in powder form by Hoosier Hill Farm. Two pounds of it we procured and it was one of the absolute best items to add to just about all of our dishes.
Walleye
Yup, we brought some premixed breading, oil and perhaps the best ingredient of them all real dehydrated BUTTER!
Catch of the day - well each day actually!
Our bear barrel was loaded down with all kinds of snacks & eats. It was HEAVY going out & ultra light paddling back; containing trash (we eliminated most wrappers & packaging before our trip).
There is a trick to getting this onto your back ... it's simple ... buddy system or place it on an elevated area so you can bend your knees, insert your arms and stand up with it. Otherwise the risk of tweaking your back with the heavy load is truly increased.
Deep within the wilderness area there is no Amazon Prime or convenient store.
One critical item we didn't bring with us was found in the lake, away from shore, deeper down as far as the arm could reach.
WATER!
Not just lake water but water that would be transported into clean drinking water keeping us hydrated for 10 days while providing safe cooking water too!
We estimated that during the course of our trip we easily filtered over 188 liters, almost 50 gallons or nearly 6,400 fluid ounces. In each of our water bottles we'd mix in what we referred to as "taking the lake out of the water" powder packets of flavored electrolytes. This, proper water filtration, was a key element to our trip that was always on this gals mind as I took direct ownership of it, desperately hoping no-one would become ill. Employing my outdoor skills and most importantly keeping hands always clean whenever near water station or food preparation. Ensuring all of us had ample water I found a groove however post trip I saw an item that I'll add next time, a collapsible light-weight vessel that holds more gallons so I can prep ahead and have more always at the ready.
Platypus 6 liter GravityWorks system ~ backflush often for increased flow & removing the yucky, you don’t want to drink that stuff ~ ewww!
There was this one time, I set out to collect lake water for filtering solo. It was a mistake. The winds were too high and I'd said "I'm all set" when I was asked if I wanted any help. Collecting the water wasn't the issue but the intense winds kept me from a direct return to shore pushing me further & further away, loosing ground with each paddle stroke. A stroke of genius, not to panic, I cut a line to the shoreline. Here I'd get out and walk the canoe a length back towards camp. When I was closer and a bit more protected from the wind I'd hop back in making the last distance without much resistance.
Who wants to go fishing?
Adult beverages weren't left behind on this trip. We transported four heavy bags (minus boxes) of sangria, twisted tea, irish cream for delightful coffee and by the last morning it was all gone.
Being in a backcountry environment one may experience more daily extremes than you likely ever have in your life. No matter, you'll be both hot and cold at times. From moment to moment, you will be wet and then dry, back to wet, and then dry out again. You'll be sleeping outside, living outside, bathing outside, and using the outside potty no matter which trip length you choose, don't forget to pack ample TP for when you get on your groove.
“Poo with a view”
Making coffee as the sun tried to burn through some times playing pee-a-boo
COOOOFFFEEEE!
We explored the area by day and relished the natural wonders night had to offer. An aurora sighting would have been delightful but the northern lights didn't come out to play during our stay.
The lake glistened, the lake bared her angry teeth while the winds came slamming in creating crashing waves, the shoreline frothed but no worry because we knew the fish would follow. Our paddling in the BWCA left no trace but etched some cherished memories.
The lake glistened, the lake bared her angry teeth while the winds came slamming in creating crashing waves, the shoreline frothed but no worry because we knew the fish would follow. Our paddling in the BWCA left no trace but etched some cherished memories.
The weather wasn't always in our favor but our spirits & love for being in such a beautiful place kept smiles on our faces.
Headed to Trident Lake
Wildlife was ever present.
Hoping for a moose sighting but only a pesky camp mouse was near. My first encounter it popped it's head out from a hole near the head of my tent. That night it filled my camp slippers with dirt having placed them in my alcove his hole covered over. Thinking this a little bit entertaining I paid the mouse no mind. Another instance, I'd heard a noise that had me exit the tent and check my gear. Nothing. It's too early, I slid back into my snuggly Enlightened Equipment quilt for a few more zzzz's. Alas, a bit later I heard it again. Time for coffee anyhow, I'm getting up. I investigate more closely in the pre-dawn light. The little dude chewed threw two dry bags while they were hung up on the cloths line; I'd caught it inside. I let him go the damage was already done. In my head I'm thinking it was better than a bear that's for darn sure. However, one day paddling we'd miss, by mere moments, crossing paths with a bear. Its wake still in the water as it swam across the narrows, clawing it’s way up the steep bank back into the trees leaving a distinct path.
We'd clean fish, eat fish, & most importantly dispose of fish bodies away from camp. The seagulls, turkey vultures & eagles all kept a keen watch on us waiting for our canoe ride with fishy carcasses.
Just added filtered water!
We spoiled ourselves the first two nights. Not pictured were the ribeye steaks we'd frozen & grilled over our first nights flame. Night number two we made pizzas we'd recommend you consider the same.
One evening, down checking on our canoes, "HOLY CRAWFISH" I'd exclaim.
A treat we'd not previously considered.
Mid-day nature snack anyone?
A bit of work but when the weather isn't that great and you stay at basecamp you've got lots of time to create a tasty dish.
Needless to say … no one went hungry nor had a meal of dismay. Snacks galore were abundant giving us options for mid-day calories that weren't boring but rather yummy-yummerz. Our very last day we split evenly what was left ensuring calories were replenished for our ten mile paddle back. We made notes as to what we’d all want more of in that bear barrel o’ treats.
There are theories on how mother nature provides us all of healthy benefits like:
Attention restoration theory suggests that being in nature can help restore our ability to focus. In our busy, modern lives, we're constantly bombarded with stimuli that can exhaust our attention, draining us. Being in nature, which is less demanding mentally, it can help our ability to focus, refocus on our lives & true priorities.
Biophilia hypothesis explains that humans have an innate desire to be connected to nature. This connection to nature may have evolved over thousands of years, and being in nature may satisfy this innate desire; I’m fairly certain this is my beautiful problem.
Evolutionary psychology talks about how our brains have evolved to be most comfortable in natural environments. Our ancestors spent the vast majority of their time in nature, our brains may still be wired to find nature calming and restorative; yeah I do think this to be true.
Biophilia hypothesis explains that humans have an innate desire to be connected to nature. This connection to nature may have evolved over thousands of years, and being in nature may satisfy this innate desire; I’m fairly certain this is my beautiful problem.
Evolutionary psychology talks about how our brains have evolved to be most comfortable in natural environments. Our ancestors spent the vast majority of their time in nature, our brains may still be wired to find nature calming and restorative; yeah I do think this to be true.
It just makes all of my innards happy to be immersed in nature so I think I’ll just keep coming back to nature.
Death or serious injury is also an inherent risk associated with any backcountry adventure, this one included. A truth, I’m no fool. People should to know the reality of what they're getting into on these types trips; I won’t shy away from sharing that.
I choose to infuse life & be a shining light where there is less, where darkness tries to take over, each days a gift, a string of moments collected across a lifeline. Time the one thing we can't get back.
This!
Tent illuminated
Always invest the time to put up your fly cuz you never know when the sky will cry leaving you sad & your gear a soggy mess
Nature!
It is magical to witness nature.
To be fueled by nature.
Whether wrapped in a fuzzy fleece, snuggly merino wool, your favorite hoodie, trusty rain jacket or quick dry shorts with tank top sitting on that craggy edge watching the waves change direction as the wind shifted from WNW to SSE it was what we all needed to slow our pace and seemingly elongate each day.
Taking each day as nature provided we would adjust and adventure to see what we could see, catch what we'd catch. Lazy starts to each day, the middle sandwiched with paddling & exploring, the end by campfire sharing stories of the day or from those of yesteryear.
One day, the six of us set out against winds much stronger than any of us would've liked, waves a lot higher than peeps in canoes really aspire to paddle in. It wasn't really all that dangerous but still... across the widest part of the Ensign we'd paddle with intent into the winds. A portage of length ahead to another lake. The afternoon we spent casting lines and scoring campsites as we'd paddle past. By the time we'd portage back to Ensign we were rewarded by an entirely different lake. The water was like glass and a sunset promised a golden glow; those winds were gone leaving us with smooth sailing back to our campsite.
Paddling back as the sunset after a full day exploringOne afternoon, my sista’ and I set out to slowly paddle along the shore. Just looking, no fishing but oy vey we found this monster picked clean!
GIANT Northern skeleton
The BWCA is an amazing place for sightseeing.
GIANT Northern skeleton
The BWCA is an amazing place for sightseeing.
There's a plethora of natural wonders throughout the million-acre wilderness waiting for you to explore by canoe. Afterwards, we'd head back to your campsite to relax along the shore or near our campfire, overlooking the waterway perhaps a swim is in store or that waterfall we'd heard of might make for a refreshing treat on what was to be a hotter day in the mid 80's the weather radio did say.
Found it ~ two portages required
There are few places in the world where you can experience the wild solitude and dark skies found in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.
Ya’ know that sensation … of complete excitement & exhilaration?!
My favorite encounter was the beaver family noshing away on oak leaves in the water.
Striking a pose is this Ruffed Grouse
Eagles are plentiful in the BWCA - keeping a keen eye on us, errr rather our fish as we fillet along the shoreline.
One of our days exploring the shoreline, the opposite side of the lake, we encountered three of these snakes near another campsite.
Red Squirrel noshing away after nocking all of the pinecones down to the forest floor
Chippy was busy all day & every day
Circling for walleye left overs
There were several Turkey Vultures that stayed near hoping we'd cast the fish carcasses their way - it was a symbiotic relationship not to worry about four legged critters
The pair of Eagles nearby were sprucing up their nest and found our fish left overs we'd left for them.
LOONS - we'd seen several juveniles along with two fluffers (which seemed kinda late in the season) on each body of water we'd explore
Folks from all walks of life enter the BWCA each year; the allure of an unforgettable adventure.
They are novel outdoor enthusiasts, kiddos who get to experience their first trip, those who've been here exploring here their entire life and first timers joining a group who swear it'll be life changing so not to miss. First-time paddlers to those with years of experience steering & maneuvering, swimmers & non-swimmers alike no matter your personal flotation device should always be securely attached to yourself when in a canoe as well as when ashore so a gusty wind doesn't steal it away.
A rocky edge but beautiful sandy bottom but always wear your water shoes for safety's sake
Camp sites dot the shoreline, none too close to the next. The Boundary Waters Canoe Area is not one to underestimate, its remote and unforgiving but the joy of being here has a value no one can put a price tag on because it is irreplaceable and should forever be protected.
A meaningful connection with the natural world that surrounds us is a must. I hope you too can get out and enjoy nature's beauty. I promise here you’ll find peace. My experiences over all of my years, it's a truth that spending time on or near the water can improve your mental and emotional health.
The majority of people who experience this type of trip go home tired but fully refreshed. Perhaps with a few bumps and bruises I can personally attest, perhaps a small case of poison ivy too. But, if you took a survey or listened to stories shared they all carry a common theme, that they've had the time of their lives; an experience of a lifetime.
If you’re looking for a much less crowded scene, an unforgettable experience, lakes that reflect surrounding cliffs and yeah while it's always ideal to have "nice weather" but with all of the pre-planning that goes into this type of trip that you can simply forget.
No matter, you'll come away refreshed, rejuvenated, and re-connected to the things in your life that matter most. This type of adventure will push the limits of your comfort zone, and at the same time, leave you feeling inspired and changed.
Each morning we'd set out to accomplish camp tasks as often we'd arrive back near dusk
There are more than 50 BWCA paddling entry points throughout the three-million-acre Superior National Forest, making it difficult to choose one perfect spot. You can start to narrow down your options by setting some goals for your trip. Do you want to fish, and if so, what species would you like to target? There are lakes with walleye, bass, lake trout, among others too. We chose our lake as a collective and each of us agrees that even though we loved it another body of water would be next. There is so much to explore, we'll leave the familiar behind and disappear into the wilderness somewhere different next time.
You have a choice - very short portage or get out and walk over this section into Ensign Lake.
Canoe about 60 ish pounds
Canoe about 40+ pounds
We all agreed a base camp is the best for us after a few adventures around the area with only day packs & fishing gear to contend with
Portaging fun across trails that had boards, mud, rocks, hills, tight bends, downed trees & more
Heather & I would go off an explore a couple of times, coming to the aide of some ladies who were portaging and a large tree crossed the path. We'd use the saw to clear the way for them and ourselves as we were headed this way ourselves the next day seeking a waterfall.
Should we get out or let it ride?
We rode out of Ensign Lake - weeeee!
Almost back to entry point #25
Nearing the end of 10 days in the wilderness - happy yet sad
We loved our time deep within the BWCA, having been a long-time advocate for its protection it was an honor to share the reward of preserving this magnificent place. I’m even more inspired and convinced that we’ll be back; this place and time together etched in our hearts.
Oh but wait there is more!!
Shortly after our return from the Boundary Waters we decided to take the Tacoma to the North Shore, a stop at Palisade Head then enter the Gun Flint Trail. For several days we'd explore back into the eastern edge of the Boundary Water Canoe Area Wilderness.
Overlanding in the Tacoma
The sound of the waves crashing into this cavern - WHAT DID YOU SAY?
Black Beach with waves that make you feel like your on the ocean's edge.
We packed a nice picnic lunch and enjoyed it just over there
Beautifully steep & stunning!
We stopped a lot along the Gun Flint Trail checking out a host of lakes we'd perhaps like to enter. Along the way, reading all of the touristy signs I saw one that was intriguing, drawing us in.
Sitting just a mile and a half off the Gunflint Trail in Northern Minnesota is Magnetic Rock. It's believed to be a relic of the glacier age. A 60-foot rock soaring 30 feet into the air. It's base is 10' x 20'. This unique rock just appears, taking over the area as you come around a bend on the trail.
A short hike off the Gun Flint Trail reveals THIS!
Is it from aliens or a prehistoric glacial time?
It's just my magnetic personality ;`)
It gets its magnetic properties from the mineral magnetite. Magnetite is the same mineral that is found in the underlying bedrock of the Gunflint Iron Formation. The formation runs from Northern Minnesota into Ontario. If you plan on visiting, be sure to bring a compass with you to check its magnetic properties. In order to do so, hold the compass near the rock’s surface and move the compass slowly across the surface. Because the rock is magnetic, the needle of the compass will spin. Many other rocks nearby are also magnetic, so don’t put your compass away!
Also, rocks from 2.7 billion, 1.8 billion, and 1.1 billion years ago are found near the trail, including rocks from the Sudbury meteor strike, the world’s second-largest meteor (I didn't know about it until after we left the area - a return trip might be in store).
When you seek adventure mid-week you have premium campsites to choose from
One stop seeking places to cast a line on Cascade River brought us deep into the woods exposing this gem
We found an old fisherman's trail that lead us to the wide section of the same river.
Nature is mocking us
Where it feels as though we are suspended somewhere below the clouds and above the mountaintops, and for a brief moment time is willing to stand still, nothing else matters in this moment.
I take to the mountains, driven by the desire to spend as much time as I can in places where awe abounds. I stand transfixed. Not wanting to blink, for fear of missing one millisecond of these fleeting moments that will only happen once.
EXACTLY. LIKE. THIS!
Headed to Eagle Mountain - the highest peak in MN
Eagle Mountain Trail is a 3 1/2 mile hike to the top of Eagle Mountain, which at 2301 feet is the highest point in Minnesota. It is not a loop trail, and the round trip to the summit is 7 miles with a considerable climb. A good portion of this trail is within the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, so the trail is maintained as a wilderness trail.
Struggles are lost.
Fears are silenced.
Worries evaporate.
Anxiety all but melts away.
And as much as we want to, we know that we can’t hit the pause button. So we linger here, silently watching the magic unfold, unwilling to pull our gaze away from a moment that we may never have the opportunity to experience again.
The most valuable commodity we have isn't money but rather TIME!
Eagle Mountain BWCA
Eagle Mountain BWCA
Be cautious, all too rapidly, it will pass by in a blur.
Live richer.
We'll be back to enjoy the rejuvenating spirit of the outdoors in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.
See you on my next adventure my peeps.
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